comunicación de congreso
SWASH-BASED WAVE ENERGY REFLECTION ON NATURAL BEACHES
Fecha
2015Registro en:
10.1142/9789814689977_0070
978-981-4689-98-4
Autor
Almar, Rafael
Ibaceta, Raimundo
Blenkinsopp, Christopher
Catalán, Patricio
Cienfuegos Carrasco, Rodrigo Alberto
Trung Viet, Nguyen
Hai Thuan, Duong
Van Uu, Din
Lefebvre, Jean Pierre
Sowah Laryea, Wahab
Laibi, Raoul
Castelle, Bruno
Senechal, Nadia
Anthony, Edward J.
Institución
Resumen
Can wave reflection be remotely described from swash dynamics and the shoreface slope inversely from reflected waves? In this paper, we revisit the link between swash dynamics and reflection using contrasting field datasets: swell waves on steep and flat beaches and wind waves on an intermediate beach. Reflection ranges from less than 1% to up to 25%. Analyses are conducted from ~10-m depth directional wave spectra measurements, daily beach surveys and video swash measurements. Our results show that swash saturation can be linked to the offshore reflection cut-off frequency (shortest reflected waves) with a strong dependence on swash zone slope, underlining the importance played by swash processes in nearshore dynamics. Moving towards a more process-based approach, an ensemble-average analysis indicates that swash flow asymmetry and skewness are strongly linked to reflection.