Morphological changes in a cuspate sandy beach under persistent high-energy swells: Reñaca beach (Chile)

dc.creatorAgredano-Martín, Roberto
dc.creatorCienfuegos, R.
dc.creatorCatalán, P.
dc.creatorMignot, E.
dc.creatorBonneton, P.
dc.creatorBonneton, N.
dc.creatorMartínez, C.
dc.date2023-03-22T17:39:34Z
dc.date2023-03-22T17:39:34Z
dc.date2019
dc.date.accessioned2024-05-02T20:30:45Z
dc.date.available2024-05-02T20:30:45Z
dc.identifierhttp://repositorio.ucm.cl/handle/ucm/4549
dc.identifier.urihttps://repositorioslatinoamericanos.uchile.cl/handle/2250/9274791
dc.descriptionThe present work proposes a morphological evolution model for sandy cuspate beaches, which depends on two parameters, swash excursion (S) and offshore wave steepness (H0/L0). The model was derived from observations of morphology and wave climate at Reñaca Beach in central Chile, comprising in-situ instrumentation, topographic surveys, wave modeling, and optical imagery. It was found that wave steepness alone was unable to explain the morphological changes observed on the beach. Rather, results indicate that swash excursion is better to distinguish between erosive and accretionary events, with swash excursion exceeding 29.5 m for more than 12 h being indicative of erosive events. While morphological changes are led by S, wave steepness correlates with the erosive potential of waves, especially when H0/L0 is greater than 0.017. Although derived for a specific beach under a limited range of conditions, this work adds to the understanding of the dynamic behavior of beaches exposed to persistent high-energy swells.
dc.languageen
dc.rightsAtribución-NoComercial-SinDerivadas 3.0 Chile
dc.rightshttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/cl/
dc.sourceMarine Geology, 417, 105988
dc.subjectSwash excursion
dc.subjectWave steepness
dc.subjectCusps
dc.subjectEnergetic waves
dc.titleMorphological changes in a cuspate sandy beach under persistent high-energy swells: Reñaca beach (Chile)
dc.typeArticle


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