doctoralThesis
Produto cosmético sólido com Prosopis juliflora: avaliação da segurança, desenvolvimento de formulações e estudo da eficácia hidratante e anti-rugas
Fecha
2019-07-31Registro en:
DAMASCENO, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito. Produto cosmético sólido com Prosopis juliflora: avaliação da segurança, desenvolvimento de formulações e estudo da eficácia hidratante e anti-rugas. 2019. 173f. Tese (Doutorado em Ciências Farmacêuticas) - Centro de Ciências da Saúde, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, Natal, 2019.
Autor
Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito
Resumen
Prosopis juliflora (PJ) is an invasive plant of Brazilian Caatinga and presents compounds in
its metabolic composition of interest in cosmetic products. This work aims the development
of cosmetic formulations in the form of a solid core containing PJ extract that upon contact
with water will form instantly a gel for single dose use. It also aims the in vitro and in vivo
safety study of the extracts and the moisturizing and anti-wrinkle activities clinical efficacy.
The samples were purified by centrifugal ultrafiltration and gel filtration chromatography,
followed by acid hydrolysis and analysis of the monosaccharide composition by paper
chromatography and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The fraction smaller than 3kDa
was evaluated by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC-MS) while the fraction
greater than 3kDa by NMR. The total fraction was analyzed by an integrated NMR platform.
The in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated using different methodologies. In vitro safety
assessment was performed using cytotoxicity and phototoxicity tests using colorimetric
method and neutral red and MTT as vital corants. The in vivo safety evaluation was
performed through the cutaneous compatibility test. A preformulation step was performed
and the most suitable technique of obtaining the formulations was chosen, which were then
submitted to a 90 days stability study. Finally, for the clinical evaluation of moisturizing and
anti-wrinkle efficacy, the water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water
loss (TEWL) were measured before and 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 hours after application. These
parameters and skin micro relief were evaluated after 30 days of daily use of the
formulations. The experimental design revealed that the best extractive conditions were at
34ºC / 3,5h (PJ2). The fraction greater than 3KDa (PJ2) was characterized as an α-glucan
and the fraction smaller than 3kDa presented phenolic compounds, some of which are
unpublished for the species, and alkaloids. These results agree with those obtained by the
integrated NMR network for the total fraction. The samples did not present cytotoxic and
phototoxic effects at the concentrations tested, nor did any volunteers present cutaneous
reactions. These results are an indication of safety of the raw material. In vitro antioxidant
activity evaluations demonstrated the potential of PJ2 acts in different stages of the
oxidative cascade. Eight formulations were delineated in the preformulation stage and three
methods of obtaining the solid cores were evaluated: direct compression, molding and
compression of granules obtained by wet granulation. The latter allowed the incorporation
of an emollient phase in the formulation and proved to be the most suitable method to obtain
the stable solid cores. After the clinical efficacy tests, it was possible to observe that the
formulation added with PJ2 increased the water content of the skin within 5h after the
application. In the long-term tests, there was an improvement of the water content, reduction
of TEWL and improvement in the parameters of cutaneous relief. Thus, evidencing the
applicability of this new form and cosmetic raw material as a moisturizing and anti-aging
agent.