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Barred-beach morphological control on infragravity motion
(2012)
A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq ...
Coherence between infragravity waves and ambient water motions over cape-associated shoals
(PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD, 2019-01-01)
Cross-shelf water motions influence fluxes of nutrients, larvae and sediments, which in turn affect nearshore morphodynamics. Among these motions are infragravity waves, which typically exhibit periodicities from 20 to 200 ...
Numerical computation of infragravity wave dynamics and velocity profiles using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model
(2010)
We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity ...
Field observations of wave and current characteristics on a microtidal reflective beach
(Universidad de la Costa, 2020)
Infragravity wave energy partitioning in the surf zone in response to wind-sea and swell forcing
(MDPI AG, 2019)
An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and
pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative
response of edge waves and leaky ...
Influence of infragravity waves on the hydrodynamics of beaches
(2015)
Infragravity waves behavior on three natural beaches were studied. Swash Oscillations were analyzed trough camera systems on an intermediate beach of Sylt, Germany, and a dissipative beach of Cartagena, Colombia. On the ...
Observations of surface-gravity-wave scattering and dissipation by an isolated shoal related to a cuspate foreland
(PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD, 2019-01-01)
Inner-shelf and shoreline morphology exert control on the variability of gravity waves. Although gravity waves can influence nearshore morphodynamics, their behavior is not well understood at inner-shelves close to cuspate ...
Surfing Waves from the Ocean to the River with the Serre-Green-Naghdi Equations
(2023)
A wide variety of hydraulic and coastal flows can be modeled using shallow water theories, where the so-called Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations constitute a fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive wave theory that has been ...
Corrientes, mareas y sus espectros en la playa norte dela barra arenosa El Mogote, La Paz B.C.S., México
(Instituto Politécnico Nacional (IPN), Centro Interdisciplinario de Ciencias Marinas, 1997-07-01)
The results presented of pressure and currents variations in the bottom layer on shallow water of the north beach of sand bar El Mogote, on July from 25 to 29 of 1994, recorded with 1 Hz the first 10 min, each two hours. ...
Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon
(Uwe Ulbrich,Freie Universität Berlin, Institut für Meteorologie, 2012)