Artículos de revistas
Profiles of fully developed (Airy) waves in different water depths
Fecha
2008-08Registro en:
COASTAL ENGINEERING Volume: 55 Issue: 9 Pages: 701-703 Published: AUG 2008
0378-3839
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.003
Autor
Le Roux, Jacobus
Institución
Resumen
Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t, given by eta(x,t)=(H-o/2) cos[2 pi x/L-o-2 pi t/T-w], where H-o is the deepwater height, L-o is the deepwater wavelength, and T-w is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height, wave shape, and displacement of the water surface with respect to the still water level for any water depth.