We investigate the ability of a ID fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness. An alternative ...

A family of Boussinesq systems has recently been proposed by Bona, Chen, and Saut in [J.L. Bona, M. Chen, J.-C. Saut, Boussinesq equations and other systems for small-amplitude long waves in nonlinear dispersive media. ...

This paper supplements the validation of the fourth-order compact finite volume Boussinesq-type model presented by Cienfuegos et al. (Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids 2006, in press). We discuss several issues related to the ...

A system of coupled evolution equations for the bulk velocity and the surface displacement is found to govern the long-wavelength perturbations in a Benard-Marangoni system. This system of equations, involving nonlinearity, ...

To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating in the final stages of shoaling and in the surf and swash zones, fully nonlinear models are required. The ability of the Serre or Green Naghdi (S-GN) equations ...

The Serre equations are a pair of strongly nonlinear, weakly dispersive, Boussinesq-type partial differential equations. They model the evolution of the surface elevation and the depth-averaged horizontal velocity of an ...

Wave breaking is one of the main forcing mechanisms in coastal hydrodynamics, driving mean water levels and currents. Its accurate representation and modeling is therefore essential to develop a thorough understanding ...